top of page
Anchor 2
I don’t think I would’ve ever guessed what this place used to be. It was nothing but what it had been to me—a shell that rang with catcalls and hollow singing shots. A bridge of a place only meant to usher me to where I really wanted to go and, in a haste of fear, needed to be before the man with the crooked smile and weathered skin sagging at the bus stop could coo into my car while I was paused at the light. Because I didn’t know what he—or the other men with bulging brown bags and too-big clothes or the women with crispy gelled edges that didn’t match the plastic ponytails—would ask me for.
 
I’ve always considered myself too honest and curious to shift my eyes carelessly to my steering wheel. Such a deliberate act seemed self righteous. So I’d wind up in a stutter, pretending to root around my car or stare at the sky with a tensed neck and nervous fingers. Hoping that they wouldn’t think that in the one glance I had thrown, they could get something from me, like unrelenting kindness. It sounds wrong. It is wrong. Because I’d made this into a safari of sorts. I was passing through a foreign land and being told they were the murderous trespassers—being told what to do to survive. Passing through and gawking at animals, only to be surprised when they sensed my presence and acknowledged it. I’d made them animals in my head. And I was the civilized one. The one worth saving. The one worth time and effort. And they were nothing but a blemish. Even though I was the one stomping their grounds.
______________________
 
At some point I forgot what stories were. Or, rather, their purpose. They’d simply become a source of entertainment, a way to pass the time. But lost to me were the relics of individual history that people carried until I stood before an oak tree in Tallahassee’s Frenchtown. I’d been wandering through the neighborhood on foot, trying to escape the stigmas that people had showered upon me about the area. And I realized that the oak trees here have a way of seeing stories. They are our grandmothers: big boned with deep wrinkles running through their skin like dry canyon rivers. Arms outstretched from one corner to the next, protecting her babies. And we’re all her babies. The Spanish moss and fern and ants crawl up and down her arms, soaking up her secrets until she’s ready to breathe into us her memories of what falls outside the pages of history. The oak trees here have a way of reminding us who we all are and where we all used to be—because they’ve been here longer.
 
This one stood at the corner of Carolina and Martin Luther King, Jr. Boulevard. She was old, but she held her ground, her spine stern and upright. I wondered who’d stepped on the soil she clung to—if she’d ever coddled little French children or saw Ray Charles stumbling out of Red Bird Café. I knew that she’d always been here and wondered what had spared her from new-world development. I imagined that Gilbert du Motier de La Fayette—the man granted the land now known as Frenchtown—had thrown himself at her feet, sobbing and protesting and pleading with the people he’d corralled from France to never tear her down. But I figured this French soap opera fantasy dramatic and overacted. Instead, I pat her trunk and left her to her thoughts.
______________________
 
Somewhere around age 19, or maybe it was 20, I became aware of my skin. I was—am—black no matter how many people pointed out the things that made me “otherwise.” In the black community, I wasn’t archetypal, so therefore I wasn’t. But to the rest of the United States—to the Census, to my classmates, to my future employers, to standardized tests, to extra-credit surveys—I am black. Eventually, I was proud that I wasn’t archetypal, even though that meant I was left yearning for a thread of identity to tie to my community. Or at least the community that everyone pegged as stereotypically black. A community like Frenchtown. And in my awareness of my skin—both the physicality and the comfort that I found in simply being me, in being different—I found a startling awareness of elitism. Elitism that squared my shoulders and upturned my nose when I was in a place that seemed so stereotypical. Because I was better than clichés. Better than Frenchtown on a Saturday afternoon.
 
In Saturday-afternoon Frenchtown there was a soothing, yet jarring, quiet. I’d expected rowdy men coughing over a shared bottle of whiskey, half-naked women shuffling down the sidewalk. Maybe the whispering pop of a not-so-distant gun shot. I’d expected obliviousness and drunkards. But there was none. I saw a man sleeping on his knapsack—his face was ruddy, red, and wrinkly, like a rock exposed to the elements, his beard stiff and stringy, his clothes unrecognizable as such while bathed in dirt. Another man, no worse for the wear and no less, hovered above him asking if he was drunk.
 
“No, I’m just sleeping.”
 
It was a mundane conversation, only focused by us being outside, them only a foot or two from the road. If it had been somewhere else, I imagined the same exchange between roommates or frat brothers.
 
“Are you drunk?”
 
“No, I’m just sleeping.”
 
And as I passed by this and tried my hardest not to stare, I noticed the passing cars. And I prayed that no one saw me as a part of this scene, because I was in no way the same as the people here, sleeping on the sidewalk. I was different. They had to know.
 
But they didn’t, I’m sure. Or maybe they did. Because, for a split second or two or three, they glanced my billowing teal skirt and yellow scarf, my hair coaxed
 high into a column of curls fastened by a silk scarf. They saw my clean face and clear eyes.
 
Or maybe they didn’t. And in the corner of their eye I was simply another figment of Frenchtown. And that I didn’t want to be.
______________________
 
“What do you think happened?”
 
“Time. It just… time.”
 
Leroy stared straight at me, eyes steady and sad. And tired. He was a figment of Frenchtown that I’d met, buried in the neighborhood’s dirt, fixed amidst weeds and old cloudy bottles. I’d seen him as I passed by the back of the homeless shelter, right before I’d stopped in front of some charred cinderblock carcass. He came up to me, curious, asking if I was surveying the land. I chuckled to myself. Pen in one hand, notebook in the other; scanning the crippling storefronts and dusty lots; furiously writing the tidbits that popped into my head. I suppose I did look like a surveyor, though I felt my bright outfit had betrayed any pretense of authority. No, I told him, I wasn’t a surveyor.
 
We were quiet. Everything was quiet. All I could hear were the soft sighs of the wind, grumbling car engines, and Leroy. I figured it was probably nothing at all like Frenchtown in the ‘80s and ‘90s, when crack cocaine trespassed on a once bustling Mecca of black community growth. Maiming it to nothing more than empty homes, businesses, and promises. Leroy blamed time, but he hadn’t been here when it all fell to pieces. He was born here, raised here, lost his mother at 15 here. And then he moved away from here.
 
“I became a man in Miami,” he says, the corners of his eyes crinkling as he recalled some moment of his youth.
 
But he returned, in love with the place that once cradled his adolescence. And now seemingly disappointed in what he saw it’d become when he came back. He told me what it used to be, lighting up when he spoke of juke joints and how this was the place for black people. Now it was gone, as was he. He’d lost his way a little, which was why he called the shelter home, but he was still proud of himself. Proud for raising two children, proud for having a job, proud for loving his wife who’d died a couple of years before. Proud of accomplishments he felt didn’t fit the mold of what this place—now off limits—had become. He was different than the rest. He called them animals and ignorant. And when he told me that they were moving the shelter to the old Goodwill on Mabry, he mumbled over and over again:
 
“I don’t blame them.”
______________________
 
I heard the shuffle of my feet, the skittering of twigs across the sidewalk. I heard the crunch of leaves and acorns and the hopeless barkings of fenced dogs. Grumbling car engines had faded, replaced by the easy shush of shimmying trees—oaks. Oaks with long, thick limbs that reached the corners of empty parking lots, townhome gutters, and four-way stop signs. Oaks that stood defiantly in the middle of my path. But I didn’t mind. I never did. It was one of the things I loved most about Tallahassee—how green it was. And I knew that the city always strived to keep it that way with ordinances requiring developers provide a minimum number of existing and/or replanted trees for new projects. The sidewalk skirted around the oaks’ trunks, no doubt cracking from the roots that protruded into their concrete spines. It was never meant to bend that way.
 
“Step on a crack or you’ll break your mother’s back,” echoed somewhere in the back of my mind as I skipped over the crumbling concrete.
 
The first things I ever noticed about Frenchtown were the sidewalks. It was morning and I was crawling through traffic down Old Bainbridge Road. A man was sauntering down the sidewalk and I watched as he passed me. And that was it. Nothing amazing happened, nor had anything horrific occurred. He was simply a man walking around his neighborhood. But then I realized at that moment that sidewalks weren’t simply a utility. They were a sign of care and community. No one cares to put sidewalks in places beyond help. But this place was worth it because the people cared. And so did those around them.
 
I rounded a corner, widening my gait to leap over fissures etched into the sidewalk. Tattoos of leaf shadows danced across my arms. From the top of Tallahassee, the capitol’s observation deck, I’d be cloaked by this canopy. From up there, I’d be swimming in a murky ocean of greens—emerald, forest, olive—with rooftops periodically bobbing above me like buoys. And the winding black asphalt and I would be surging somewhere below like Atlantis.
______________________
 
She looked content. Legs crossed gently at the ankles, one arm cradling the back of a chair, the other resting in her lap. She was slouched slightly forward and her body was angled toward the center of the barbershop—as if she didn’t want to miss a thing. She already intrigued me because Dale, the barber next door, had urged me to come talk to her.
 
“You want to know more about Frenchtown,” he goaded, “Go talk to Etta Ruth. She should be in today.” He nodded at the wall shared by his shop and Doc’s Two Stop.
 
The 2 PM sun scratched at the windows, casting shadows of the shop name onto the hairy linoleum.
Behind me, clippers hummed and gnawed a fade into a young man’s head. I glance up—sun-bleached magazine clippings of men’s haircuts glow under exposed florescent bulbs. Underneath lies Etta Ruth’s station. Resting amidst brushes and jars of sanitizing fluid are hot pink silk flowers and ivory porcelain canisters. Her barber’s license sits behind them, an onlooker for nearly 50 years of service.
 
“They said that I probably wouldn’t be able to do it because I was the only lady barber to work in Tallahassee. There were a lot of ladies that finished but they would run away, you know, to other parts of Florida.”
 
I never asked Etta about her motivations for staying in Tallahassee for so long and becoming the first lady barber. Or about what seemed to drive so many away. But I imagined that the things that made her stay were the same as what connected me to this town: home, family, her life. I imagined her as I saw myself: proud of her successes and knowing that they could take her anywhere she wanted to go, yet hesitant and anxious when her peers mused about leaving town. But I could’ve been wrong. She said she’d wanted to work for the people—not for herself—and maybe that meant her people. Because she wasn’t going to find them anywhere else. They were all there, in Frenchtown, waiting for her in her barbershop. They were the ones that made her possible, she said.
 
My eyes and ears roamed. The mechanical clipper whirring was like background music. It was there, but it wasn’t the most important thing about the shop. It was the chatter of patrons that mattered most. It was the reason I’d been so nervous to come into Doc’s. This was theirs, their community, and I didn’t want to be an outsider. But when Etta spoke, I began to understand Frenchtown; I began to feel more a part of it. Because I had dared to come in. I had dared to understand and see it for what others saw in it. For how Etta saw it. And what she saw was it rise as a black-owned neighborhood and then fall into the hands of those who didn’t embrace its roots.
 
“Sometimes when our parents die and leave us property and what have you, we think very little of it. So we sell it. And then it became bigger, bigger, and bigger… Then the city bought it. Then it was no longer the same as it was 20, 30 years ago. It was no longer ours.”
 
From the clippers’ hum emerged Miles. He complimented Ms. Etta’s words with his knowledge of the underbelly; he was a credible source. He chimed in that crack cocaine flipped Frenchtown on its head, as it had done to many American towns in the ‘80s, leading to homelessness and violence and prostitution. He explained that the enterprise funding—monies and policies strictly set aside to aid in restoration and development in urban areas—to rebuild Frenchtown was diverted to other parts of Tallahassee. And it wasn’t necessarily a loss in pride, but a rise in rent and taxes, that drove people to sell their business. To make way for revitalization—a renaissance that started and ended with the Renaissance center.
 
I glanced around the large room, taking in the tattered barber’s chairs and exposed vents. Following the cables that ran along the room perimeter with my eyes until they met their destinations. The peeling linoleum and the front door that stuck with such insolence it took a special shimmy and shake to get it open. And I wondered what would’ve happened if Tallahassee had followed through for Frenchtown. For these businesses and business owners. And then I looked at the men waiting patiently by the window, bantering with Miles as he somehow maintained the focus to fade his customer’s hair so well. I remembered the woman Etta had been speaking with right before I’d come into the barbershop. And it never rang truer that I’d done a disservice to Frenchtown by looking only at places and forgetting who forged them. And as I left, Etta’s words echoed:
 
“I’m thinking about the people here … In order to increase and make a better place where we live and the businesses that they gave us, well we have to want to give, too. And to want to give you have to do.”
 
And so I did.
______________________
 
The sun was ambiguous—not high enough to say it was around noon, not low enough to call it six-ish. So I guessed that it was about 3:30. I’d parked across Tennessee Street in the Macomb garage. Partially because I hadn’t known where to park in Frenchtown, and partially because I’d felt safer there before I’d set out. My skirt billowed out behind me, a breeze freezing the sweat that rolled down my thighs. I pat my breast, where I’d tucked my phone. Still there. The crossing sign chirped at me, pushing me across the walk until I was engulfed by the garage’s shade—a relief for the heat trapped in all the wrong crevices of my body. My chest swelled with the warmth and regard people had felt so comfortable to express to me as I’d sleuthed about. I was a confidant. I was embraced. I was a part of Frenchtown.
 
I wrenched my car door open and fell into the seat. I slid the key into the ignition and as my car roared to life, echoing in the empty garage, I leaned back for a second, trying to wrap myself in my leather interior, and breathe.
 
I think next time I’ll park closer.
bottom of page